"If
you would like to hear and understand the stories that stones tell…. At
midnight, under the light of the moon, pick an arnica leaf … squeeze it
between your thumb and little finger and smear the juice on your left
ear …"
(L. Pesek, A Stone's Voyage)
To fully understand the importance of geological history, or the influence
that it can have on the identity and development of an entire region,
it is necessary to pay attention not only to the marvelous landscapes
that make up our natural heritage, but one must also take a look at the
factories and other projects that man has been able to create over the
centuries by intelligently exploiting the geological resources that surround
him. So, before travelling in time through the Quaternary or Jurassic
Periods, let's stop a moment and take another look at the castles of the
Puglia, its magnificent churches and cathedrals , the fortified plantations
of the Murgia, its enchanted "trulli", and the symbolic burial structures
of the Dolmen and the Menhir's. We immediately realize that there is only
one fundamental element which unites them all and has allowed them to
survive through time: limestone. Almost 80% of the Puglia is made up of
limestone and dolomite, and the incredible varieties of its forms. If
we wish to understand how this type of rock is formed, this "cornerstone"
that has given life to extraordinary landscapes and man-made structures,
and which constitutes the symbol and very essence of our region, we need
only fly to the Caribbean, over ten thousand kilometers away, to the collection
of islands known as the Bahamas. We have come here not for the resorts,
but to discover the coral reefs, the archipelagos, the lagoons, the geological
layers and the barrier reefs that are silhouetted in the warm, shallow
seas of these latitudes. But let us proceed by steps…
Phase One
In the Middle and Lower Jurassic, about 190 million years ago, Italy did
not exist, certainly not the Puglia, at least not as we see it today.
But, following the breakup of PANGEA (the mega-continent that included
most all of the dry land) several small gulfs and interstitial seas, with
a whole series of islands and rocky shores, began to form, very similar
to what we see today in the Bahamas. Our limestone began to form in that
context, in that far-off time, thanks to a collection of small living
organisms that removed calcium carbonate (CaCO3) from the water to make
their shells. These organisms were, for the most part, bivalves and invertebrates,
and when they died, their shells were deposited on the seabed and started
accumulating, one on top of the other, until they formed, in this manner,
the first strata of sedimentary calcium carbonate, in the form of sand
and mud. These little animals, like coral, can only live in the tropical
and equatorial latitudes, with a warm and humid climate and a shallow
and transparent sea. This means that, in the Jurassic, the Puglia, or
rather the complex of calcium carbonate layers that represented it, found
itself closer to the equator than it is now, actually in the tropics.
It is only after the shifting of the continental plates, which occurred
65 million years ago, that our Puglia began to "sail" towards the north,
slowly being carried into the position in which we find it today. The
calcium carbonate layers, and the environmental system that created them,
continued on almost completely undisturbed for an unimaginable length
of time, 125 million years! To make a temporal comparison, it is enough
to remember that the entire history of human civilization has occurred
in the last 10 to 12 thousand years. The incredible growth of these structures
is evidenced by the fact that in Puglia, right under our feet, are almost
2,000 meters of limestone and dolomite sediment. This is explains how,
as the animated film clip shows, the vertical and lateral growth of the
layers went on contemporaneously with their deepening ("subsidence").
Thus, while the older strata were being pushed towards the bottom, sedimentation
continued undisturbed with the laying down of new shells and carbonaceous
mud that piled one atop the other, forming in this manner, the colossal
sedimentary structures that we are able to observe today in any one of
the many open caves in our territory.
The Dinosaurs
The tropical islands, lagoons and geologic layers of the Jurassic and
Cretaceous Periods were widely visited. We have the proof, from 1997 when,
in a limestone cave in Altamura, some enthusiastic visitors discovered
and recognized hundreds of "strange" fossilized tracks in the rocks. By
now we know for sure that these are the tracks of dinosaurs, those terrible
lizards (sauro=lizard, deinòs=terrible) that inhabited our planet during
the Triassic, Jurassic and Cretaceous Periods, for over 150 million years
(and which Homo sapiens has dominated for only 2 million years!). The
dinosaurs that inhabited the calcium carbonate layers of the Puglia were
partly herbivores, thanks to the rich tropical vegetation which covered
those islands, and partly carnivores. Perhaps it was actually a Brontosaurus,
about 25 meters long, sinuous and powerful, who, together with other members
of his group, left those tracks along the water's edge, right there, on
that tropical beach, south of Bari, on a spring morning 70 million years
ago…. Those imprints on the beach were miraculously preserved thanks to
the rapid drying of the calcium carbonate mud in the sub-tropical climate,
and to a series of microscopic algae that trapped the footprints, allowing
for their conservation until this very day. But those footprints would
never have reached us if that calcium carbonate mud had not, over time,
turned into stone….
Phase two.
Time,
pressure and temperature. These are the three fundamental variables which
intervene in all geological processes and phenomena. These are the three
variables which led to the solidification ("diagenesis") of the sand and
calcium carbonate mud, transforming these loose sediments into the limestone
rock that we see today in the buildings and surfaces of works of art throughout
our region. Temperature and pressure, in particular, influenced chemical
reactions, provoking unstable minerals to dissolve and the successive
precipitation of the cement that must bind the microscopic grains together.
Pressure, in its turn, acted during the burying phase, compressing and
compacting the various strata, while time, in the end, assured the imperturbable,
incredible transformations that a rock habitually endures during its long
life. Thus, at the end of the Cretaceous Period, around 65 million years
ago, those tropical islands were already good and formed and were completely
out of the water and with the greater part of their sediments transformed
to limestone and dolomite. Sixty-five million years ago … it's a fundamental
date, a frightening date! A gigantic meteorite, probably from the asteroid
belt between Jupiter and Mars, or perhaps farther away, collided with
our planet, falling on the area occupied today by the Yucatan Peninsula
in southern Mexico. The impact was terrifying. Most of the species then
alive were literally swept off the face of the planet in a few decades!
And along with them, the majestic dinosaurs, probably the greatest animal
species that our planet will ever know. Still 65 million years ago, something
else happened almost as frightening. The continental plates into which
our planet is divided began to shift irresistibly as if they wanted to
find a better position. Among these, the enormous African plate began
to rotate in a counter-clockwise direction and to move northwards, in
the direction of Europe and the many calcium carbonate layers that by
now made up Italy. Thus, beginning in the Oligocene and continuing to
the Upper Pliocene Period (50 to 55 million years ago) the African plate,
and its more northerly portion, the so-called African promontory, came
in contact with the European plate and the Adriatic micro-plates, among
which was the Puglia, causing first the Alps and then the Apennines to
rise up. The Puglia was not directly involved, as was the rest of Italy,
but it did experience strong "stress" that caused it to fracture in many
places and to take on the shape of giant steps. The forces of compression
from the African Promontory, in fact, caused the massive limestone layers
of the Puglia to bend and break. They then began to push like giant steps
under the Apennines in the direction of the Basilicata. These great fractures
involved our region, which sank with the same step structure, between
the Gargano and the Murge, creating the prerequisites for the laying down
of the sediments of the Tavoliere delle Puglie (the Puglia Plateau), and
going on to form, between the Murge e the Serre (Sierras) of Salento,
the sediments of the Brindisi-Lecce plain. More recent geological history,
that of the last 2 to 3 million years, has been dominated by a more diffuse
regional uplifting, more pronounced in the Gargano area (which is still
rising) compared to other areas. During this period, the region was also
subject to variations in the level of the oceans caused by the glaciation
of the Quaternary Period, which brought about intense shaping of the coastline,
which is still going on. Today's geological history is now everyday history.
It is the story of the limestone erosion that has produced the magnificent
Grottos of Castellana , of Zinzulusa or of Santa Croce (Bisceglie). It
is the story of the Pulo di Molfetta, of the Caves of Altamura, of the
Gravine of Laterza, of the Gargano Promontory and a score of marvelous
places and landscapes. But it is also the story of the hydro-geological
disasters that have troubled a good part of our region, from Sub-Apennine
Dauno, to the anthropological caves of Canosa di Puglia, from the flooded
areas of the Salento to the fragile cities that are located on the coastline
or on the Tavoliere delle Puglie. And it is a story that must be respected,
loved and preserved, not only for ourselves, but above all for the generations
which one day will have the good fortune to inhabit this splendid land.
Text by Alfredo Degiovanni